October, 1896

S we note the different changes from season to season, it is curious to find that black costumes are seldom out of style.  This fall there is a wave of popularity for black, which extends not only to dress materials, but to trimmings, ribbons, garments and hats.

Black is now so generally worn, that, outside of nun’s veiling, crêpe cloth, and tamise, there is hardly a distinctively mourning material.

The separate skirts and waists are still in high favor, though there are more costumes in one material in preparation this season than have been noted for many months.

Cheviot-finished serge and the heavy corded mohairs make serviceable costumes, and are desirable for separate skirts.  They wear well, clean nicely, and are suitable for shopping, travelling and general utility.

The street costume is made with short jacket lined with silk, and has a seven-inch godet basque back, with straight, snug-fitting fronts.  The skirt measures five yards at the foot, is lined with silk to match the lining of the jacket, and has little or no fulness at the waist.

A separate silk blouse is made to wear with this costume, with added basque four inches deep, and straight, high crush collar without bow or rosette trimming, but finished at the top with a tiny ruche of narrow lace, or a quarter-inch fold of white lawn.

With the separate waists there are also elaborate belt effects, made with huge bows at the back, and also in front at one side.  These are becoming to tall, slender figures, but should be avoided by those who are short and stout.

Silk of all kinds can be purchased cheaply, and perhaps for this reason there was never a season when it was more extensively used.  For afternoon gowns it is the favorite material, and for dressy costumes, when combined with velvet, it is most desirable.

Many of the house gowns are very simply made, depending more upon the fit and style of the dress and the combination of colors for the effect, than upon the trimmings.

One of these simple gowns is made of a striped green and black taffeta silk of firm weave.  The skirt is made to flare at the foot, without fulness at the waist, and is edged at the bottom with two tiny overlapping ruffles.

The bodice is made with blouse effect in front, with an added basque at the back; the only trimming being a ribbon collar, and full soft cravat of lace which droops well over the bust.

In more elaborate house gowns, a contrasting front of plain silk is inserted, which is overlaid with chiffon or point d’esprit lace.

The latter also appears as a ruche on the high collar, and as a loose vest, or tucked yoke and sleeve puffs.  The bodice is long and slightly pointed, and the sleeves are close and wrinkled.

The pretty figured taffetas at one dollar a yard are being made up into evening gowns for young girls.  One of violet and white has a skirt of nine gores, is seven yards wide, and interlined to a depth of fifteen inches above the foot.

The waist is round and plain, smoothly covered with white point d’esprit net, with a belt of narrow violet ribbon.  A tiny ruche of net finishes the half low neck, and bows of violet moiré taffeta ribbon are on the shoulders.  The sleeves are short, of the net puffed over silk.  A fichu ruffle of plain violet silk is carried across the shoulders and falls over the sleeves.

Reference:

Moore, Myra Drake (1895, October). What Is Worn This Fall. The Ladies World, XVI(10), 10. Retrieved from http://victoriantimes.us/fashion/what-is-worn-this-fall. ^

© 2011, VictorianTimes.us. All rights reserved. See Terms of Use. Printing and/or downloading images or PDF constitutes your agreement with these terms.